Your Dog’s Eyes (Part 1)

The eye, in dogs, as in all animals, is the most specialized of the sensory organs. As such, it is highly sensitive to trauma, infection and disease, both acquired and hereditary.

Because dogs can’t tell their owners when they are suffering irritation or pain in their eyes, the eye is an often overlooked area of trouble. Many a devoted dog owner has failed to notice his pet’s eye trouble until it is so advanced that blindness results or the removal of an eye is necessary.

From the tiny Pekingese, whose slightly bulging eyes can become diseased because of inadequate protection, to the huge St. Bernard, whose drooping eyelids can catch and harbor bacteria which cause eye infection, many special breeds are particularly susceptible to certain types of eye disease.

Dog owners should be aware of some of the most common eye problems, which breeds are most likely to develop them, how they are treated, and, most important, how they can spot potential trouble while there is still time to safely treat or cure the disease.

Many a serious problem starts with an irritation or trauma to the eye, which causes inflammation. If a dog’s eye becomes inflamed, the problem should be attended to immediately, as the problem can usually be treated if diagnosed in time. If inflammation is allowed to continue for too long, much more complicated problems can result.

What Can Happen To The Inflamed Eye?
For one thing, one of the most important protections the eye possesses – the ability to produce tears – can be interfered with or stopped completely. If the dog’s eye no longer produces tears because the tear glands and ducks are inflamed, the dog can develop ulcers in the eye.

Your dog can also develop a condition known as keratitis, or inflammation of the cornea – a clear protective disc over the colored part of the dog’s eye – gets inflamed, the white part of the eye often responds by growing blood vessels down over the injured cornea.

Of course, the dog will be temporarily or permanently blinded if the blood vessels are allowed to block light from entering the pupil, the small hole behind the cornea which lets light into the eye.

Infection, bumps or scratches on the eye, foreign bodies such as foxtails in the eye, and ingrown eyelashes are all common ways in which a dog’s eye becomes inflamed. If a dog’s eye become swollen, red, runs a lot, or if the dog rubs his eyes excessively, the owner should see a veterinarian before the condition becomes serious.

First Aid For Dogs – How To Save A Choking Dog

Dogs sometimes have a bad habit of putting anything they find inside their mouths. Actually, let me correct that statement, dogs always seem to find a way to put objects in their mouth that do not belong there! They tend to pick up all types of stuff, ranging from balls to rocks, small toys to articles of clothing, basically anything they deem fun to play with.

Unfortunately, there are many times when a dog accidentally swallows these objects and it becomes lodged in his throat. If this object is not removed immediately then there is the chance for the animal to stop breathing and become unconscious.

Since this occurrence is very common with all pets, it would behoove of you to learn the basic moves that it takes to help your dog from choking. This can invariably save the life of your pet.

Below are basic First Aid steps which can come in handy for a choking dog:

If Your Dog Is Choking, But Remains Conscious

1. With two hands, open your dog’s mouth and look inside to see if you can see the object. If you can see it, try your best to remove it.

2. If you cannot see the object, place your dog on its side and elevate the hindquarters.

3. Now place your hand below the rib cage and another on the dog’s back. Press in and then up, all in one fluid motion. Keep pressing until the object is coughed up.

4. If the object does not come up then your dog may become unconscious. If this happens, then follow the steps below.

If Your Dog Becomes Unconscious

1. As stated above, be sure that the dog is placed on his side with elevated hindquarters.

2. Open the airway and be sure the tongue is pulled out as far as possible and placed to the side.

3. Now perform several compressions in the same area that you had attempted to press in the rib cage. After two to three compressions, check the mouth for any foreign objects by using the sweep of your finger.

4. Now give the dog a few breaths.

5. Repeat this cycle of compressions, finger sweeps, and artificial respiration breaths until your dog starts breathing by himself and dislodges the object.

Dog Grooming – 3 Ways to Dry the Coat

There are three methods that can be applied to properly dry the coat, depending on the breed of dog you are working with. These are: The fluff-dry method, the cage drying method, and the towel-dry method.

The first method and perhaps the most difficult to achieve is the fluff-dry method. A high-speed floor dryer is used for this procedure. This method of drying is a very important and crucial step in the proper grooming of certain breeds such as the Poodle, Afghan, Old English Sheepdog, and Maltese.

In fluff drying, the hair is not only dried but should be straightened as well. The warm air from the dryer is directed at that portion of the coat which you are drying. The hair is brushed in an upward motion with quick, even strokes until the hair in that particular spot is dry and straight. This procedure is carried out over the entire coat until it is completely dry. The results of a fluff dry can sometimes determine the overall appearance of the completed grooming job. Therefore, it is important to learn to give a proper fluff dry. Special attention should be given to the areas of the head, ears (long-haired ears), and legs.

The second method of drying is known as cage or kennel drying and is usually used on short-coated dogs or on dogs whose coat does not require a fluffed or straight appearance. When using this method of drying, a cage dryer is attached to the cage and the dog is put into the cage on a towel until he is dry. It is important to make sure that the cage is properly ventilated on the top as well as on the sides. Otherwise, the dog may suffocate. If the dog is too large for the cage, he may be placed on a grooming table and dried with a floor dryer.

Another method of drying that is commonly used in drying small breeds is the towel drying method. Towel drying is usually used with small, short-haired breeds such as the Chihuahua, Miniature Pinscher, and Toy Manchester Terrier. The coat is rubbed briskly with the towel until it is dry. This method is rarely used because many owners prefer the cage drying method, which is much faster. However, if the special equipment is not available in the home, this method is sufficient. However, do not to take the dog out until you are sure that the coat and skin are thoroughly dried.

Tip: Check Out Dani’s Dog Grooming Book And Discover The Secrets Of Master Dog Groomers And Save Hundreds Of Dollars On Your Dog Grooming Bills Without Even Leaving Your Home!

Canine Cardiac Disease

How Common Heart Murmurs In Dogs Could Be The Result Of CCD

If your dog gets diagnosed with a common heart murmur problem, it may be a sign of canine cardiac disease.

According to the American College of Veterinary Internal Medicine, a heart murmur results from blood flow running through the heart that is abnormal. Some heart murmurs are perfectly normal while others, similar to those heard in aging dogs, may be a sign that some type of heart disease is prevalent. The most common cardiac diseases in dogs include:

1. Congenital birth defects that show up when a puppy is young.
2. Degenerative valve disease (heart valve leaks) that mostly affect older or middle-aged dogs.
3. Loss of heart muscle tissue that is typically seen in young dogs or middle-aged larger dog breeds.

Detecting The Disease
Heart disease may not show up or be detected until it has reached a point where your dog experiences heart failure, collapse, or even sudden death. Your veterinarian can certainly check your dog out for heart murmurs by using a stethoscope. However, as the dog owner, your responsibility is to be on alert for certain signs such as difficulty in breathing, coughing, intolerance to exercise, or a swollen abdomen (caused by fluid retention).

Canine cardiac disease can further be checked for by specific information regarding your dog’s breed type, age, chest x-rays, blood pressure measurements, and EKG readings. For a definitive diagnosis, an ultrasound of your dog’s heart is required.

Treatment
Treating your dog back to good health will depend entirely upon the stage of the disease and how severely it has affected other parts of the body. If your puppy is young and has a congenital defect, it may be surgically removed.

Heart disease that is acquired later in your dog’s life requires heavy lifestyle management and changes in living. Such changes include maintaining a healthy body weight, additional exercise (or reduced activity depending upon your dog’s condition), special cardiac diets, and specific medications that can be used to reduce stress put on your dog’s heart from his condition.

The prognosis for dogs that have canine heart disease will vary. Some dogs may be fortunate enough to have successful long-term care. Others may have a shorter lifespan ranging from a few weeks to a few years. It is important to keep in mind that the earlier your dog’s condition is assessed, the easier it will be to treat and the odds will be greater that your dog or puppy will enjoy a long, healthy life.

Dog Q & A – Shedding Question & Feces Eating

Question: Too Much Shedding!
“I have always taken great pains with the care and grooming of my Siberian Husky, making sure that he is immaculate at all times. But when I brushed him today though, I got two full buckets of hair. I know dogs are supposed to shed, but never have I seen anything like this. He actually looks bald! Can you tell me why?”

Answer:
As they say in life, you can overdo any good thing. If you keep him “immaculate at all times” then I would assume that his diet is also the very best, probably supplemented with vitamins and minerals that his system really doesn’t need.

This happens all too often. Owners who have nothing but good intentions run out and try to do everything possible to make sure their dogs and puppies are in good health. They buy all of the supplements, they attempt dog training from every angle possible, and they just plain go overboard on care – often mentally or emotionally debilitating the animal is some way.

But I digress – about the shedding issue, these types of haircoat problems can usually be traced to one of the following three causes:

1) Parasites
2) Dietary deficiencies
3) Hormonal imbalances

Only a veterinarian can properly diagnose which of these three things may be causing your dog’s problem. Schedule an appointment immediately and be sure to write a detailed list of all supplements and food intake that your dog has had over the last several months.

Question: Why Rabbit Pellets Can Cure The Feces-Eating Dog
“Some time ago I picked up a magazine article in the latest issue of Dog World and a man wrote in to the editor that he was having a severe problem with his dog eating feces. This man’s pet would literally eat feces from any animal at any time. The magazine suggested that he feed his dog rabbit pellets.”

“Well amazingly I had to try this same advice when my 2-year old Chihuahua started this same disgusting habit. And guess what? It worked! Now I’ve just got to find out exactly why it worked. I’ve asked as many as four different veterinarians and none can tell me why. Can you help?”

Answer:
When a dog eats feces, it is generally an indication that a certain mineral is lacking in the dog’s diet. This can be the case regardless of what the dog is fed or how good you consider his nutrition to be. The same is true of dogs who eat cement or occasionally, dirt. The chlorophyll inside the dog’s body is converted into more complex substances and stored. Some dogs, however, eat their own stools out of boredom and not from a mineral deficiency. Rabbit pellets are not a magical solution, but you just happen to find something that contains a substance that your dog needs – the rabbit pellets. Just don’t go overboard on them and try to discuss this with a canine nutritional expert.

Emergency First Aid For Dogs 5 – Approaching An Injured Dog

The most common of all accidents involving dogs is the one in which the dog is struck by a car. To help you prepare as best possible should, you run into this type of scenario with a hurt canine, please read along and take notes of the following steps. And please, take these steps to heart as it can save your dog someday, or someone else’s family pet.

Approaching A Hurt Dog
When approaching a dog that has been struck by a car, care must be taken that you aren’t bitten by the dog you’re trying to help. An injured dog knows only that it hurts and probably won’t be aware that you are on the scene in an attempt to help. Slowly approach the animal and see what his injuries might be.

While you evaluate the extent of the dog’s injuries, prepare an emergency muzzle using a necktie, belt, gauze bandage – or anything else from which such a muzzle can be fashioned. Affix it around the dog’s mouth and tie it behind the head. If the dog is bleeding severely, quickly apply a pressure bandage, tie off the exposed artery, or apply a tourniquet between the wound and the dog’s heart.

Broken Limbs
In the event of a broken limb, immobilize the limb to prevent bone-grating action, or the possibility of the bone protruding through the skin. Use cardboard, wood, chicken wire – whatever is immediately available. Even a couple of sticks of wood, with the aid of a belt, can be secured to a dog’s limb to help immobilize it.

Creating A Stretcher
A coat can be placed on the ground to double as a stretcher and as a means of keeping the dog warm while he’s being transported to the nearest veterinary clinic. Please lift the dog as gently as possible. This is extremely important in the event that internal injuries are present.

The primary concern in the event of an auto accident should be the presence of shock and internal injuries; therefore, speed, and an absolute minimum of lost motion is essential if a dog’s life is to be saved. Broken legs and external injuries are relatively unimportant in the beginning, and saving the dog’s life comes first.

No Food Or Water
One of the first things a person usually wants to do when aiding an injured animal is to give it food or water – perhaps as a way of reassuring the dog. This, however, should not be done since it could aggravate any possible internal injuries. A chain reaction of vomiting and further internal bleeding from severe vomiting spasms could then be brought on.

Every dog owner should become aware of the necessary steps in administering first aid. First aid – promptly administered – can save a dog’s life… and who knows, it may just be your own dog! But always remember, first aid, by itself, is no substitute for professional veterinary care. First aid is emergency aid, and does not replace the need for professional attention.

Emergency First Aid For Dogs 4 – When A Dog Is Bleeding

It happens every day – a dog is crossing a street or busy intersection and becomes the target of thousands of pounds of crushing steel – injuring the poor animal to the brink of death.

If you ever have the unfortunate experience of bearing witness to this trauma, it is important to have a basic understanding of shock and any type of bleeding the animal may be experiencing. In fact, any bleeding must of course be considered an emergency condition, because the canine doesn’t really have any blood that it can safely spare.

There are three types of external bleeding that every dog owner should be aware of:
1) Arterial
2) Venous
3) Capillary

Arterial Bleeding
Arterial bleeding occurs when an artery has been severed. The blood from an arterial wound will be bright and red, and will flow in a pulsating manner in time with the dog’s heartbeat. This is the most dangerous of the three types of bleeding, and the flow of blood from the severed artery must be shut off, or clamped. If it cannot be seen, pressure must be applied between the wound and the loss of blood until professional help can be obtained.

Venous Bleeding
If a vein has been cut, the blood will be darker red, and will flow evenly. A pressure bandage – or any pressure at all – applied directly below the wound, will help stop bleeding from a severed vein. The pressure should be released every five to eight minutes, and then reapplied.

Capillary Bleeding
Capillary bleeding can be recognized as an oozing from the small, surface blood vessels. This will probably be the most common wound you’ll encounter. Direct pressure applied to the wound will stop the flow of blood. This can be accomplished by the use of gauze bandages – or whatever type of folded cloth may be available in an emergency.

Note: Cotton should never be applied directly to a wound as a pressure bandage.

Any internal bleeding must be regarded as extremely serious, and professional treatment is required for the necessary injections to help coagulate the blood. Internal bleeding can be caused by a ruptured organ inside the abdominal cavity (such as the liver or spleen).

Internal bleeding is usually indicated by grayish-white gums, which is also a visual symptom of shock. In any case, where internal bleeding is suspected, the dog should be treated for shock, since any extreme loss of blood will cause the dog’s blood pressure to drop. The loss of blood pressure alone can cause the dog to go into shock.

Emergency First Aid For Dogs 3 – The Shock/Stimulant Controversy

When a dog goes into shock, what stimulants are safe to give the animal? What exactly should you do in this situation? Life or death is waiting on your decision…

Before going into the differences of professional opinion on these very important questions, note the following basic guidelines:

A) If the dog is conscious then administer sweetened, warm coffee or whiskey.

B) If the dog is unconscious then do not give it anything at all. Instead, rush the animal immediately to the closest veterinarian’s office.

The Shock\Stimulant Controversy
It is interesting to note that many of the popular canine medical books on the market today are in complete opposition regarding a large number of the procedures for emergency first aid. Although these publications are written by knowledgeable, practicing veterinarians, their different views cause more questions than answers.

One major point of controversy is whether emergency first aid procedures should be instituted at all. One faction claims that time wasted looking for blankets or other material to keep an injured dog warm could spell the difference between life or death.

The other faction claims that failure to keep the dog warm could also spell the difference between life or death. The biggest controversy, however, seems to concern the type of stimulant to be used in an emergency situation: coffee, tea, or liquor.

The anti-liquor advocates state that liquor is a depressant, not a stimulant. The pro-liquor advocates counter by saying that liquor is a depressant only when consumed in large quantities, and that in an emergency situation, a shot of booze serves as an effective stimulant.

How can practicing veterinarians, men and women who are highly trained and closely skilled as one another in the same medical field, have such opposing views on something as simple as emergency first aid procedures? Hasn’t veterinary medicine progressed to the point of being an exact science? The answer is an unqualified no!

Make A Choice, Any Choice
It will be most interesting to know your personal opinions on the matter. This issue should warrant debate so that you can choose how to be prepared to help your dog (or any dog) that may be in an emergency situation and has fallen into a state of shock. Any help is better than just leaving the dog to die or mistakenly rushing it to the hospital without shock treatment.

In summary, then, remember the initial steps in the treatment for shock: Keep the dog calm and warm; administer a stimulant if (and only if) the dog is conscious; and rush the injured animal to the nearest veterinarian for the necessary supportive treatment.

Emergency First Aid For Dogs 2 – Treatment Of Shock

Your dog can easily go into a state of shock, caused by any amount of pain, toxin, or injury. And when it comes to the treatment of shock, veterinarians are not in full agreement as to the term “treat for shock.”

One side states that treating for canine shock includes the administration of intravenous fluids, oxygen, and possibly blood transfusions; procedures which are not possible for the layman to undertake.

Of course this is agreeable, however, on the opposite side of the controversy there are also veterinarians who feel that if the dog owner will implement a few emergency procedures, the onset of shock can be prevented – and in cases where shock is already present, the effects can be minimized.

Basic Procedures You Can Do
So, while the full procedures for treating for shock include some things not within the scope of the layman, we will still us the term “treat for shock” in describing those procedures which can and should be implemented by anyone on the street.

The first step in the emergency first aid procedures for treatment (or prevention) of shock is to keep the dog calm and warm. Anything available to accomplish this should be used: blankets, hot water bottles, your own coat… anything to keep the dog warm and keep its temperature from falling.

The second step depends upon whether the dog is conscious or unconscious. If the dog is conscious, you should administer stimulants such as warm coffee, bourbon, or brandy.

Note: It is also interesting to note that the type of stimulant used is also a big controversy among veterinarians, as will be discussed later.

If warm coffee is used, mix in some sugar and cream (or honey) so that the dog will not find the stimulant bitter and end up trying to fight its administration. Some veterinarians find brandy or whiskey, mixed with equal parts of honey or syrup, to be more effective.

Never Force A Stimulant
Stimulants such as these, spilled into the corner of your dog’s mouth, can help to keep it alive until you reach your veterinarian. However, if your dog fights the administration of the stimulant, stop! Step one is to keep the dog calm and warm; if it fights the stimulant, the excitement and distress which result are far worse for the dog’s condition than the value it would receive from the stimulant.

If the dog is unconscious – or semi-conscious – do not administer any liquid supplement at all! To do so would probably cause strangulation. The liquids could also go into the lungs causing inhalation pneumonia. When you have done all that you can in the treatment for shock, the dog must be taken to a veterinarian as quickly as possible for supportive treatment and the administration of the necessary intravenous fluids.

Emergency First Aid For Dogs 1 – Symptoms Of Shock

I’ll never forget my very first dog. Her name was Scarlet and she was the most well-behaved Golden Retriever anyone has ever seen. Loving, kind, playful and obedient – Scarlet was supposed to last forever – at least in my young mind.

But my worst nightmare happened as I never expected to see her lying in the street across from our house, bleeding, hurt, broken bones – in severe shock. I was not prepared and because of this I lost my lovable dog.

It May Happen To You
At one time or another there is a good chance that every dog owner will find him or herself in a position which requires immediate action if the dog’s life is to be saved. All too often, people will simply rush their family pet to the nearest veterinarian, only to find their canine friend dead on arrival. Properly administered first aid could quite possibly have saved the animal’s life, since many deaths are the result of shock and not of the actual injury itself.

Any time a dog is injured – whether it be a major a minor injury – there are two primary steps that should be taken. Step one is to stop the bleeding, and step two is to treat for shock. If the injury is considered major, a third step is indicated: getting the dog to the nearest veterinarian. Too often, steps one and two are overlooked – and step three is then no longer applicable due to the death of the dog.

Proper Education
Any person who has ever sat through first aid lectures, whether given by military personnel, public schools, or Red Cross representatives, has heard the terms “in shock” or “going into shock”, as well as the term “treat for shock”. Too often, such lectures fail to tell the student just exactly what “shock” is, why it is, and just why treating for “it” is important; yet shock can be the primary cause of death.

Shock can accompany such things as bee stings, snake or insect bites, fear, trauma, hemorrhage, burns and certain toxins or other forms of intense pain. It can occur in any situation in which something unusual has happened. Every dog owner should be aware of the simple treatment steps to follow. And even if a dog shows no signs of shock following an injury, it should be treated for it as a preventative measure.

Symptoms Of Shock
If an injured dog displays pale and grayish gums and a weak but rapid heartbeat, the animal is already in a state of shock. The body of the animal will be cold, producing a bluish skin and pale mucous membrane – this is especially noticeable around the lips. The dog may be panting quite heavily, and may be either conscious or unconscious.

« Previous Page — Next Page »